TT01E EURO TRUCK TUNING AND RULES

YEAH RACING - 50mm Damper Set 4pcs (for TT01E Euro Truck) DSG-0050BU

These are the best tried and tested shock/spring combo set to help prevent roll over and create a dampened cornering.

Limiting the shock travel further by inserting one of the supplied spare rubber o-ring into the chamber, keeps the TT01E low to the track surface, with a droop effect.

They are supplied kit form. Make sure to seek help on building shocks for the first time. Use around 350CST shock oil when building these.

The kits comes complete with 4 sets of springs.

We use the softest on the front (red) and the next hardness on the rear (yellow). If your truck is not rotating on the rear, go up a hardness.

We run these shocks on the lowest setting, giving us around a 5.5mm ride height all round.

We use a Tubby Insert - in fact two types.

(TUBBY MEDIUM) 2pcs (USE FRONT) - U6747TT01E

(TUBBY MEDIUM) 2pcs (USE REAR) - U6746TT01E

Make sure to tightly pack the inserts before inserting them - they need to be evenly spread to prevent hard patches.

Fold into a 'C' Shape, and then fold once more. Keep held tight on insertion. (Always making note which tyres are front and rear - Harder front)

Gluing the tyre wall - 'Slip Effect - Anti Grip Roll'

FRONT ONLY!!!!

As you can see here- we noticed a build up of glue on the 'Tamiya' lettering. In future it is advised to flip the tyres when assembling.

Tyre Wall Glue dries clear and flexible

Now you have filled the tyres with thick hard foams (reducing tyre cornering compression) and you have glued the tyres to the rim (preventing tyre loss), the next stage you completed was the first layer of glue on the tyre sidewall.

1 - Glued tyre sidewall you have done two things here

- A. Made the front tyre wall harder.

-B. Made the tyre face less 'Grippy' when in contact with the track barrier or other trucks)

2 - See Pic - You will notice there is a part where the sidewall ends and the tread starts on the 'face' of where the tyre meets the ground. In this gap lays the 'Grip roll' issue.

A- Carefully apply a second layer of glue across the entire face of the tyre sidewall and slowly smoothen this layer nearly up to the tread (NOT ON THE TREAD). This glue does not set straight away, so make sure its a very thin layer. Repeat to reduce grip roll further.

Leave to completely dry! *Front outside tyres only for this process*

You are now race ready.

Tips

1. Give new tyres the chance to bed in.

2. Understeer - add additive

3. Oversteer - Do not use additive next round. Or only apply to the inside of the tread (leaving half not covered in more grippy stuff)

4. Poor rear rotation - stiffen rear end

5. Front droops on breaking and leans whilst under grip (no grip roll) stiffen front springs

6. Under of chassis is showing rubber marks on outside edge - raise ride height by turning the shock collars towards 1mm at a time. Good measure is 5.5mm from ground all round.

7. Car does not like S bends (understeers - try some of the above, but harden shock springs if scrubbing off time here).

8. Have grip but poor steering angle (does not make a turn under power or off power) increase EPA for direction or turn on handset and make sure dual rate is on max. You should always have 100% DR and then brings in the EPA till the steering 'Max's out'. You can then use the DR to lesson the amount of left & right steering angle when needed.

Setup Mentions:

1 - Ride Height Guide (shocks wound all the way to the top - lowest - with 2mm O-ring inserted into shock) ride height ground ground to chassis will be around 5.5mm

2 - Front Toe: Start with 1.5Deg Toe Out - so wheels are points outwards on the front. It has been known to reduce this to gain better straight lines or even combat fast S bends.

3 - Suspension mount holes (inner - lower) upper (outer) start with in the lower hole. Moving the front more upright if you wish to create more direct initial steering response (increased unwanted grip on fast turns).

4. Body height - after racing a few laps, ensure the tyres are not making contact with any point of the body. Contact will cause the tyres to grip the body and cause a 'braking' effect only of that loaded corner and can result in more grip roll.

5. Handset setup

A. with all above said, this is presuming you have all EPA's set to mx throttle and brake. And Steering set to max EPA before the steering knuckles max out. You can now lower your EPA to the point that allows you to turn, without spinning out.

B. Use steering and throttle curves to 'lesson' the initial throttle~brake and steering input. Giving the first input from your fingers a smoother feel, whilst still giving you max top end on demand when at full trigger angle. Lowering the curve will give a smoother line through the cornering, keeping the balance of the truck on all four wheels.

Smoothness wins in truck racing, and its the slowest 'looking' truck that is typically the fastest. The trucks have a max speed, so you need to keep the truck at that near top speed average the best you can. Slowing down too much for a corner, will lesson the speed you come out of the turn.

For more info from the Pro's see the link here to The RC RACER website.

For this we advise to be shown in person - due to possibly electrical risks.

- Setup your power distributor / a 3V power source or your charge to DC Output 3v (MAX)

- Get some Deionised Water and pour into a deep dish. Mix in 1 drop of washing up liquid.

- Place the motor in the water connected to the power source and run for ten mins (in reverse) Positive will either be a the red motor wire or have a coloured dot marked on the motor.

Running the motor in reverse will add 'timing' to the brushes. And the water will help reduce heat whilst they bed in and reduce the com from shinning up.

These are what we say are 'marginal gains' and not something you do on your first motor when starting out. A new racer would notice no benifit - where as a good racer will notice the power delivery change and maybe even overtake others down the straight.

Warning - these motors do not last long - All brushed tin cans will eventually 'burn up' where the brushes deplete. A good ran motor will notice a sudden increase of power a meeting or so before the end of its life. And the end result will result in motor simply stopping dead.

We have several links on youtube. See this one for an idea.

1. Regularly strip out all the drivetrain and bearings, clear and relube.

2. Diffs needs cleaning and rebuilding as the metal 'pastes' into the oil and turns it into grinding paste.

3. Poor servo saver can result in poor performance, even in straight lines. Check this is cantering.

4. Geometry, check ride height and all tie rods as these can move under impact.

5. Shocks may leak or get air in them. They may need rebuilding if bounce back when no spring fitted, or you can hear air.

6. Suspension arms and ball pivots - regularly remove servo linkage and shocks to make sure all the suspension and steering components are moving freely. Greasing of all moving points is key here, from point of building through its live.

7. Spares, you will always be good to Keep Tamiya A - Parts. Giving you near enough one side (of either side) on hubs and shock/gearbox issues. Also keep a spare motor, as they can last 4 to 12 weeks of pure fast racing.

8. It is good practice to rotate the tyres left to right to gain even tyre where. Having a spare set is good, as they can be short in supply at times. The tyres can be ran till they bear through to the insert. And only seem to ever gain grip as they turn from treaded tyres to slicks.

Here you can see the Tyre at its swollen state. Above showing the new tyre- showing the effects of 12 weeks of additive use. Time to replace!